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CAMBODIA
Getting
Around
Transport in Cambodia is all part of the adventure. The
roads are in a terrible state, boats can only operate when the water
is high enough, and the packed trains travel at walking speed. Fortunately,
Cambodia's not a big country.
By train
Until 1999, train travel was considered too dangerous for tourists,
but with the improved security situation, increasing numbers of
visitors are choosing the rail option. Travel is, however, tediously
slow and pretty uncomfortable - the only seating is hard wooden
benches. There are no reservations, so you'll need to turn up early
to stand a chance of a seat, though don't expect the train to leave
on time. Some trains consist only of cargo carriages, so a hammock
can be useful. Men usually sit on the roof of busy trains.
There are two narrow-gauge railway lines in Cambodia: one from Phnom
Penh to Sihanoukville, the other from Phnom Penh to Sisophon via
Battambang. Trains are a good place to meet and talk to locals.
You'll probably be the centre of attention, as foreigners on trains
are still very much a novelty. It's a good idea to take food and
water, although hawkers will be selling food along the way. Fares
are extremely cheap: Phnom Penh to Battambang and Phnom Penh to
Sihanoukville each cost 4500r.
By road
Buses and coaches of the conventional sort are a rarity in Cambodia,
the exceptions being on the routes from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville
and Kompong Cham, which are in a state of good repair. Elsewhere,
the roads vary from dodgy to impassable, and the usual mode of public
transport is a pick-up truck - often scarcely adequate two-wheel-drive
Toyotas. The journeys are long and uncomfortable, but reasonably
cheap. Prices vary, depending on whether you sit in the cab or out
in the open in the back. Many travellers prefer sitting in the back
, as it's cheaper and there's generally more space to get comfortable.
You'll need to protect yourself from the sun, though; as for the
dust, there's little you can do about that. For half a seat in the
cab you'll pay up to twice the price of a seat in the back; for
the luxury of a whole seat you'll pay double again. Prices given
in the guide refer to travel in the back. Timetables don't exist
for pick-ups. They tend to leave early in the morning as soon as
they're full, around 6 or 7am.
By boat
Boats are an easy way to travel to areas on the Tonlé Sap
River, Mekong River and south coast. On the whole, Malaysian-made
fast boats are used - a cross between an old school bus and a torpedo.
The ride is more comfortable (and much faster) than pick-ups or
trains, but conditions are still fairly cramped, so don't expect
the luxury that the foreigner prices imply. Many tourists opt to
sit on the roof for the views. Some routes may not be navigable
in the dry season when the water level drops.
By
plane
There are three domestic airlines in Cambodia. Royal Air Cambodge
runs a fairly slick operation. President Airlines and Phnom Penh
Airways are cheaper, but their planes tend to be older. Prices are
very reasonable: a one-way ticket from Phnom Penh to Battambang
costs $45, a return $90. During the rainy season, flying is the
only way to get to the remoter areas.
Vehicle
rental
Renting a motorbike is the most practical self-drive option for
Cambodia's poor provincial roads. At the rental shops in Phnom Penh,
you can pick up a fairly good 250cc trials bike, which should be
able to handle most terrain. Cars tend to come with a driver. They're
almost exclusively white Toyota Camrys, and cost a reasonable $20-25
per day. A small number of guesthouses have their own jeeps which
they may rent out (self-drive).
Bicycles and motorbikes are available to rent cheaply. Although
in Phnom Penh the traffic is intimidating, especially at rush hour,
most other towns in Cambodia are not particularly dangerous places
to explore on two wheels.
If you do intend to self-drive any vehicle in Cambodia, bear in
mind that road conditions are unpredictable. Your journey may take
much longer than you anticipate, you should never travel alone and
it's a good idea to carry food and water.
Officially, vehicles drive on the right, but traffic regulations
in Cambodia are flexible and you may encounter people driving on
the left. Driving on the roads to Sihanoukville and Kompong Cham
can be dangerous, as the traffic is heavy and hectic, but elsewhere,
traffic is much lighter.
Local transport
Motorcycle taxis, commonly called motodops or motos , are the most
convenient way of getting around town and are inexpensive - short
journeys cost between 500 and 2000r. The baseball-capped drivers
are highly skilled at spotting customers before they even realize
they need a moto. English-speaking drivers can usually be found
outside hotels, guesthouses and other tourist spots, though they
may well charge a small premium for being able to communicate. Non-English-speaking
drivers will often nod enthusiastically in a show of understanding,
only to proceed to the nearest guesthouse or tourist site.
Three-wheeled cyclos are a more relaxing way to trundle around cities,
but are only practical for shorter trips. Cyclo fares are subject
to negotiation, usually between 500 and 1000r, perhaps a little
more in the midday heat. With both motos and cyclos it's best to
agree a fare in advance unless you know what you should be paying.
Taxis aren't really used for short hops around town. There is one
metered taxi service in Phnom Penh, which you must book in advance.
Otherwise, cars are booked by the day, or by the journey.
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